Orou Sapulot: 5 Days In The Wild of Sapulut

From Daydreams to Reality with Orou Sapulot

I had seen videos of people climbing the dramatic rock formations of Batu Punggul in Sapulut, and it left me in awe. It seemed like the ultimate adventure, one that I dreamed of experiencing myself. So when the chance for a 5-day, 4-night Sapulut trip popped up, I immediately said yes!

Day 1: Into the Heart of Sapulut

It took us about 4 hours from Kota Kinabalu to reach the Green Restaurant in Sapulut when we switched to a more rugged, four-wheel-drive vehicle. The next 45 minutes would take us over some rough terrain to reach the jetty of Kg. Labang.

At the jetty, our adventure turned traditional. We hopped into a longboat and in a short 15-minute we finally arrived at Pungiton Eco-Camp.

I was struck by the camp’s natural charm. Endless greenery and the subtle symphony of the jungle surrounded us. The “camp” was styled like an open-air longhouse—our home for the night.

After a hearty late lunch, we’re ready to explore the Pungiton Cave.

The Mysterious Pungiton Cave: A Real-Life Geography Lesson

Pungiton Cave is a sprawling, multi-leveled cave system. The cool air from the underground streams flowed out like nature’s air conditioning. Inside, the darkness was total. Equipped with flashlights, we ventured deeper, shrieks of bats filled the air.

Walking among stalactites and stalagmites—the kind we’d only seen in Geography textbooks—was surreal. The cave adventure took around two hours and we only explored 4 out of 7 levels. According to our guide, fully exploring Pungiton Cave would require a week to uncover all its nooks and crannies. The cave seemed to hide an endless maze of shadows and secrets.

We returned to the camp for a well-earned dinner, recapping our cave explorations before retreating to our open-air longhouse for the night.

Day 2: The Thrills of Batu Punggul and Heartfelt Hospitality in Kabulongou

The next morning, we packed our stuff out of Pungiton Camp, and journeyed to the starting point of Batu Punggul. As we embarked on a 30-minute scenic boat ride and got closer to the 800-foot limestone pinnacle of Batu Punggul itself, the excitement increased.

Arriving at the base, we started a 30-minute hike to the climbing point. Along the way, we passed a fascinating cave, with limestone formations resembling jars, believed by locals to be remnants of a fossilised longhouse.

Climbing Batu Punggul was both thrilling and humbling. We climbed, relying entirely on grip strength and focused footing. The rock surface, made of limestone with hard, sharp edges, provided very small footholds—making thick hiking shoes unsuitable. Unless you have rock climbing shoes, the next best thing to wear is the RM12 “Adidas Kampung,” made 100% out of rubber with a strong grip. Guides were positioned between each climber to provide 1:1 support, showing us the best footholds and hand grips. We reached the top in about 30 minutes—a climb that felt like hours! But the view from the summit was worth every ounce of effort. Green landscapes stretched endlessly, and we spent an hour soaking it all in.

A Journey to Kabulongou: Community Spirit and Forest Restoration

After Batu Punggul, we made our way to the Kabulongou Eco-camp near Pagalungan. A short drive brought us to the roadside trailhead, and from there, a 40-minute hike awaited us. The local community greeted us warmly, even helping carry our bags over steep hills and hanging bridges.

Along the trail, we participated in a forest rehabilitation program, planting trees as part of the Kabulongou restoration effort.

Exhausted but exhilarated, we cooled off with a refreshing dip in a nearby waterfall. That evening, the local community prepared a scrumptious dinner; freshly caught freshwater fish was cooked in several ways: Pinasakan, a salty, sour, and spicy dish fragrant with turmeric and ginger, and sweet-and-sour fried fish—the crispy exterior gave way to soft flakes that just melted in the mouth. The sweet deer meat braised in soy sauce is a true delight. Rounding out the meal were vibrant local vegetables, simply sautéed, bringing out their natural freshness and flavours.

After dinner, we gathered to hear from Datuk Dr. Richard Sakian Gunting, the founder of Orou Sapulot. He shared the story of Kabulongou, a 1,000-acre forest once ravaged by logging, and the ongoing efforts with the help of the local community to rehabilitate it and slowly revive the ecosystem. They even have plans to construct bird hides for birdwatching, with species like pittas, great argus, and hornbills returning to the area.

Feeling inspired, I drifted off that night, excited to see what adventures the next day would bring.

Datuk Dr. Richard Sakian Gunting, the founder of Orou Sapulot — Datuk Dr. Richard Sakian Gunting

Day 3: Jungle Treks, Border Crossings, and Murut Culture

After an early breakfast, we geared up for a hike around Kabulongou. The previous night’s rain meant plenty of leeches, so leech socks were a must. But despite the potential for tiny hitchhikers, nothing could dampen my excitement to explore this dense, stunning jungle. Strangler figs, towering belian trees, and a variety of massive trees filled the forest. With streams winding through, and moss-covered boulders scattered about, it was hard to believe this area had once been logged so heavily. The forest looked untouched, wild, and wonderfully alive.

The hike was fruitful; we spotted red-leaf monkeys swinging through the canopy and found scratch marks on a tree left by a sun bear. Our guide even shared that he’d recently seen a clouded leopard in the area. Deer calls echoed around us, adding to the sense of returning to life in this rejuvenated forest. After two hours, we returned to the campsite and packed our bags for the next adventure: a journey to the Kalimantan border.

From Riverbanks to the Border

We drove to the jetty at Kg Salung, Pagalungan, where we boarded a motorized longboat for an hour’s ride to the Kalimantan border. Gliding downriver past vibrant Murut villages, each one brimming with life and history. One longhouse housed 150 families!

Around an hour into our ride, we approached the Kalimantan border, marked by the CIQS (Customs, Immigration, Quarantine, and Security) complex. We couldn’t cross over further, so we turned back, finding a quiet riverbank to enjoy lunch before heading back upstream.

An Evening of Murut Heritage

Next, we stayed at Munor Aulai Guesthouse, our home for the next two nights. After a relaxing dinner, we gathered to learn about Murut handicrafts. The local community shared their intricate beading and weaving, as well as the artistry behind traditional hand-tap tattoos. The craftsmanship was mesmerizing, each piece telling a story of culture and heritage passed down through generations.

From thrilling jungle treks to exploring village life along the river and experiencing Murut culture firsthand, day 3 was unforgettable.

Day 4: Farm Life, Traditional Skills, and Murut Culture Immersion

On our fourth day, we took a peaceful walk around Munor Aulai Integrated Farm. The farm operates on an impressive model of sustainable agriculture, where natural trees are preserved, and fruit trees are planted around them. From cocoa and agarwood to durians, jackfruits, pineapples, and mangosteens, the variety was inspiring. This two-hectare model farm is meant to help Nabawan District villagers optimize small plots to create steady and sustainable incomes.

After helping with some cocoa grafting and harvesting, we enjoyed a satisfying farm-fresh lunch.

In the afternoon, we were treated to a demonstration on making tapai, the Murut traditional rice wine. The process begins with partially cooked rice laid out to cool on banana leaves. Once the rice is cool, it’s mixed with yeast powder and stored in a jar to ferment for two weeks.

Our next adventure took us to the farm’s fish ponds, where we tried our hand at fishing. Each of us caught a few fish, which made dinner all the more rewarding.

Fishing at at Munor Aulai Integrated Farm

A Night of Murut Celebration: Dance, Gongs, and Tapai

That evening, after a dinner featuring our freshly caught fish, the local community surprised us with a Murut cultural dance performance. The energy of live gong music filled the air as we watched five dances, each with unique movements and rhythms. The highlight, of course, was the magunatip, the iconic bamboo dance. The dancers’ agility and timing as they weaved in and out of the clapping bamboo sticks were mesmerizing.

We even got a chance to try playing the gong ourselves! Though it looked simple, Murut gong rhythms proved to be complex and challenging.

The evening culminated with a tapai drinking session, where we learned about Murut drinking customs. After finishing your turn, you’d call out the next person, pour water into the jar, and rinse the bamboo straw for them—a communal and respectful tradition. The laughter and shared moments made it a joyful celebration, leaving us with full hearts as we drifted to sleep.

Day 5: A Farewell to Orou Sapulot at Vangkaakon Waterfalls

Our final morning began with a sense of both excitement and nostalgia. After breakfast, we set off toward Vangkaakon Waterfalls, a hidden gem nestled within Sabah’s Class 1 Protection Forest Reserve. Only Orou Sapulot holds a permit to bring visitors to this special location.

The 45-minute journey through paved and gravel roads brought us to the trailhead, and from there, just a short 5-minute hike led us to the campsite. The setup is ideal for those who want to camp, complete with basic amenities—huts, toilets, shower rooms, and a kitchen.

Vangkaakon Waterfalls boasts four stunning levels. Hiking to the topmost level takes several hours, so staying overnight is recommended for those who want to explore fully. Since it was our last day, we made it to the second level, where a beautiful cascade awaited. I couldn’t resist a dip in the cool, refreshing water.

After the swim, we gathered back at the campsite for a hearty lunch, savouring every moment. With a heavy heart, we packed up and began our journey back to Kota Kinabalu.

This five-day, four-night adventure in Orou Sapulot has etched itself into my core memories, its wild beauty and warm people, a place I’ll cherish forever.

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