The Charms Of Tamu Besar Kota Belud

Kota Belud, is a lovely countryside well represented by its beautiful landscape, unique cultures and tapestry. A two hours drive from Kota Kinabalu City will bring you closer to this countryside, known for its various attractions, from the greenest view of Mount Nungkok, dubbed the ‘Anak Nabalu’, to deep ocean blue wanders like Mantanani Island. It is indeed an exciting destination for every nature, adventure, and culture lover out there.

This district is also located within the UNESCO Global Geopark area, with unique natural topography and cultural heritage that is preserved holistically with a sustainable community. Tegudon Tourism Village, Aura Montoria, Kampung Sangkir, and Nohutu Ecotourism are some of the popular community-based tourism sites in this area led by enthusiastic local communities. Proudly, the Homestay Taun Gusi in Kota Belud was a recipient of the ASEAN Community Based Tourism Awards in 2023, showcasing the district’s commitment to establishing its tourism potential.

However, one of the annual highlights of Kota Belud is the Tamu Besar Kota Belud. A festival held more grandeur than the weekly Tamu Kota Belud. ‘Tamu’ is a local term for a meeting place, a venue for local communities to meet and exchange goods. It is a nod to ancient times when Tamu was a thriving place where locals from rural areas gathered together to trade. To this day, tamu is a common term in Sabah and is usually organised weekly in each district around Sabah.

The back story of Tamu Kota Belud was previously known as Tamu Tempasuk. It is the oldest tamu in Sabah, started by William Pretyman, the first British resident in Tempasuk village on December 13, 1878. Every year, locals from around Sabah, including foreigners, will visit Tamu Besar Kota Belud to experience the marketplace celebrated with a vibrant Bajau Sama cultural festival. Bajau Sama is the second largest indigenous community in Sabah, known to populate on the west coast – Putatan, Tuaran, and Kota Belud areas.

The colourful parade of the Bajau horsemen is among the main attractions. Due to their skillful horse riding skills, Bajau people are known as the “Cowboys of the East.” Watch as these locals, usually the men, parade around the complex on their decorated horses.  The horses are adorned with colourful clothes and accessories to match their master’s costume. It is too pretty to ignore, and the sound of the little dangling accessories made by the galloping horses, added excitement to the festive atmosphere.

 

The Tamu Besar is also the perfect time to see the variety selection of Kota Belud’s artisanal crafts. Local crafters will display their handicrafts for sale and enthusiastically share their crafts’ ancestry. The colourful tudung duang is a symbolic traditional craft, unique to the Bajau Sama of Kota Belud. It is traditionally made purposeful as a food cover, hence the name tudung. The duang crafts are also available in multiple sizes and shapes for variety purpose, decorations, or as fancy giftboxes. They are made using serdang dan nipah leaves, dyed in multiple colours. The bright yellow, pink, purple, and green colours are so eye-catching and hard to miss, yet these meaningful colours represent the essence of Bajau’s festive spirit and cultural heritage.

Additionally, Kota Belud is renowned for producing parang, a local variant of machete. Kampung Siasai Kota Belud is notably known for this, and the artisans frequently display their parang during tamu days. Each parang is paired with intricately carved sleeves made from various types of wood, such as Acacia Bawang, Kayu Malam and Kayu Serian. Meanwhile, the hilt can be made from similar wood and animal horns. The designs of the sleeves are often inspired by nature, for example, wild ferns, creeping but-but plants, cassava leaves, bamboo and more. It is said that each parang is unique and reflects its owner’s identity.

Other crafts and traditional costumes are also exhibited and for sale in many artisanal booths. Dusun and Iranun are the other ethnic groups populating the Kota Belud area. Each has its own unique tapestry, costumes, and crafts. Some offer costume rentals, creating an immersive experience for visitors and enabling them to take beautiful pictures during the festivities. It is worth noting that each accessory and fabric motif carries a deeper meaning with cultural values that have been passed down through generations.

Meanwhile, the festival comes alive with music, dances, and the pounding of traditional instruments. A multi-ethnic group cultural parade showcases Sabah’s diverse community. Surrounding the complex arena are exhibitors from various departments promoting their services as well as organising pocket activities suitable for the whole family to participate in and enjoy.

At the weekly tamu ground, business is as usual, with sellers coming in from near and far, selling all kinds of local food and fresh produce. Make sure to explore their local gastronomy.   For first time visitors, kuih penjaram is a must-try! Made from simple ingredients of wheat flour, rice flour, sugar and coconut milk, these traditional round snacks are often available in brown (brown sugar) or green (pandan) colour. This district is also particularly well-known for its ‘mee sup Kota Belud’, a noodle soup. It is such a filling dish with flavorful chicken broth and is frequently served for breakfast or lunch.

Tamu Besar Kota Belud is an exciting event filled with cheerful colours, melodious cultural music, and a welcoming community showcasing its heritage. The annual event is usually celebrated for two days, during a weekend.  It is definitely worth taking a road trip beyond the capital city to this charming town. Make sure to set aside some time to enjoy the nearby attractions around Kota Belud. A little birdie once said that one must not leave without exploring this picturesque side of Sabah!